← All tricks

Load into the car

Your dog gets into the car on their own and on cue — no lifting, no hauling on the lead and no panic before every journey.

🐾🐾🐾 · ~12 days · 5 min/session

Learn first: Hand touch, Wait

Step-by-step

  1. Start with the engine off

    Park somewhere quiet, open the boot or a rear door and simply sit nearby with your dog on a loose lead. Drop the odd treat on the ground by the bumper and let them sniff the car as long as they like. Do two or three sessions like this without asking for any loading at all — the car has to become a boring, safe place first.

    💡 If every journey so far has ended at the vet, your dog already has an opinion about the car. These boring sessions exist precisely to change it.

  2. Pay for every step forward

    Stand to the side, not in front of your dog, and stay quiet. Say “Yes!” and reward the instant they look at the car, take a step towards it or sniff the sill. Deliver the treat on the ground beside the car so your dog stays close and chooses to come nearer on their own.

  3. Front paws on the sill

    Put your flat hand on the boot floor and give your familiar “Touch” cue — your dog will step or reach towards it. Reward straight away while the front paws are up, and let them step back down on their own. Repeat around ten times until stepping up feels easy and predictable.

    💡 Jumping into a boot loads the shoulders, elbows and spine. For puppies, senior dogs and long backs such as dachshunds or corgis, use a ramp from the very start — and ask your vet how much jumping is safe for your dog.

  4. The whole dog inside

    Move your hand further into the boot and wait for your dog to bring the back legs up themselves. Never lift them in or push from behind — that teaches them loading is something done to them rather than something they choose. Reward inside, then say “Free” and invite them back out.

  5. Add the cue and the door

    Once your dog loads confidently, say “Load up” right before you gesture at the boot. Then close the door for one second and open it again immediately — reward the calm, not the loading itself. Build up to five, ten and thirty seconds of closed door over several sessions.

    💡 Clip your dog into a travel harness or load them into a crate from now on. A loose dog in the cabin is dangerous both in a hard stop and the moment you open the door in a car park.

  6. Short trips to good places

    Make the first real trips two minutes to the park or a nearby field, not half an hour to the clinic. Drive smoothly, avoid sharp corners, and travel your dog on an empty stomach. On arrival ask for “Wait” before unloading — the door opens, but your dog only comes out after your word.

Common mistakes

Problems & solutions

My dog plants themselves two metres from the car and won’t move.
Stand still and don’t pull — wait. Go back to the distance where your dog still takes treats calmly and work there for a few sessions before closing in again. Open a second door too, so the car doesn’t look like a dark tunnel.
They load fine but drool heavily and are sick on the way.
That’s classic motion sickness, not disobedience — many puppies grow out of it around a year old. Travel on an empty stomach, keep trips short, crack a window and face them forwards. If it continues, ask your vet about anti-nausea medication before long journeys.
They shoot out of the boot the second I touch the handle.
Practise opening the door a centimetre: if your dog stays put, close it and reward inside. Widen the gap gradually, closing it again at the slightest move forward. Until it’s reliable, hold the lead before you even unlock the car.

Reward ideas

Use something strong — boiled chicken, sausage or cheese — because you’re working against real worry. Reward on the ground by the car and inside the boot, and save the biggest payment for the moment your dog loads themselves.

Track the progress

Follow your dog’s progress on this trick in the Pets Club app — separately for each pet.

Get the app for free